An ailing C. intermedia

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Below are photos of a C. intermedia (flamea x dwarf) that I got about a year+ ago. It has held this sheath for some months now.

I am mostly a slipper grower who’s venturing into Catts, and wondering what might be going on. Virused, maybe? There is a new growth starting. [A note to Dr. Leslie Ee - Jens suggested I pm you about this, but I was not able to send the message through. 🙂]

Thanks in advance,
Patricia5F0AF82F-4BC2-4A70-99FA-7536F150ADD7.jpeg 41C6C0AE-25F0-48A3-BEB9-DD0648CC15DF.jpeg
 

Carmella.carey

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I think from my experience the best way to recover struggling catts is the smallest clay pot and tightly packed sphagnum moss. the base of the bulbs should touch the edge of the pot so that there's no need for rhizome clips or stakes. And it should be set into a pot roughly 2" larger than the pot its planted in and it should be allowed to walk out of its pot into the next with new growths.
PatrickIMG_20220329_125453.jpg
 

Carmella.carey

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I think from my experience the best way to recover struggling catts is the smallest clay pot and tightly packed sphagnum moss. the base of the bulbs should touch the edge of the pot so that there's no need for rhizome clips or stakes. And it should be set into a pot roughly 2" larger than the pot its planted in and it should be allowed to walk out of its pot into the next with new growths.
PatrickIMG_20220329_125453.jpg
 

tomp

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At the first sign of distress, like dehydration, Start by looking at the roots. ITS ALL ABOUT THE ROOTS. The symptoms of both overwatering and underwatering are, unfortunately, the same. If the velemen on the roots has failed the plant can not uptake water. if the roots a full and plump, repot. If the roots are rotted follow Patrick’s advice above. Regards leaf spotting there a two good references you can access:
Saint Augustine Orchid Society website, look for articles by Sue Bottoms (an Orchid Goddess) and,
Rays First Light website.
regarding Spag moss, it can work miracles. I always leave a bit of air space at the bottom of the pot to insure drainage. Good luck and welcome to the wonderful world of Cattleya!
 
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Thank you, everyone who chimed in.

Leslie, thank you for the observation of a possible fungus. Having had many slippers over the years, I can’t say I've seen much in that regard.
Ozpaph, There‘s definitely a new root coming in, and a small growth starting, so there is hope.
I’d say about the bottom half of the 3” pot is hydroton, but I do like the idea of trying it in sphagnum as Patrick and Tom have suggested. Thanks also for the 2 references, Tom.
 

JustinR

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I revived quite a few Cattleya imports in the last couple of years, most of them come good eventually. I tried a lot of different things and most approaches worked. The only one that didn't work for me that well was sphagnum😂. Oh well, I'm sure it can work though. Take care not to overwater, I think maybe the roots can stall when there is too much moisture. Anyway, you have a new root on that one, once it gets a bit longer it will be able to rehydrate the plant. The other thing to bear in mind is that Cattleyas won't do well in shade. Good luck with it:D
 

Carmella.carey

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I revived quite a few Cattleya imports in the last couple of years, most of them come good eventually. I tried a lot of different things and most approaches worked. The only one that didn't work for me that well was sphagnum😂. Oh well, I'm sure it can work though. Take care not to overwater, I think maybe the roots can stall when there is too much moisture. Anyway, you have a new root on that one, once it gets a bit longer it will be able to rehydrate the plant. The other thing to bear in mind is that Cattleyas won't do well in shade. Good luck with it:D
Well I grow most of my catts in sphagnum with clay pots in Virginia with 100+ degree F. temps in summer (40+ degrees C.) Its impossible to water too often in summer.
Patrick
 
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