Search results

A substantial difference in coloration. I assume that David’s photo was in the greenhouse - but under lights or just natural light? The show photo must have been artificial light indoors?

David, are you trying to specifically get the foliar spray to the undersides of the leaves where the stomata lie?

My Phrag RJQ came from Tom Karlina when his business was still open. Orchids Limited, who originated the cross, were out of them and I haven’t seen them in back in stock with them. OL told me that their original cross, which was triploid, was very slow growing. Mine from Tom has also been slower...

It is a very nice plant with outstanding parents – (Bob Betts x Bow Bells). It was registered in 1959, but I don't know on which side of the Atlantic Ocean. There may have been award activity in the RHS, but the first AOS award was an AM, then nothing. In 1990, someone slipped up and the hybrid...

Inorganic fertilizers are mixtures of various salts (e.g., calcium nitrate and monopotassium phosphate), and the fertilizer formula on the front of the package (e.g., 13-3-16) indicates the percentage (by weight) of some, but not all, components. The package label should give the percentage of...

Maybe the small cubes would be fine until they start to compact? Perhaps you can find the large cubes by then.

Thank you for such an outstanding report on your growing conditions. I am sure it is all of those things that have made the plant to grow. It is the combination, not any one thing.

I like that you chose the large rockwool cubes as a medium. The small cubes in the larger, taller pot would probably have reduced the air too much. This next year’s growth and flowering will be exciting to see.

David, Leslie’s first post about this plant said that he has had the plant for 15 years. What changed in the culture of the plant to bring out its strength?

My experience with luedd. is very limited! I have seen the wing tips on the ‘Arthur Chadwick’ mericlone that I purchased so at least know what to look for. Do you look for this at the judging table when you are dealing with submitted lueddemanniana?

I am using a battery operated 1.5 gallon sprayer. I mist enough to make the top layer of the Hydroton wet, as though there had been a light/modest rain. This stops the upper layers of Hydroton from being dry for very long. When I check, this process also keeps the lower layers of Hydroton from...

I would like it to be an easily treatable infection, but before I went down the insecticide road I would pull the plant out of the pot and inspect the roots. If they are good, just put it back in and fill in the same media and go after the infection. If the roots are poor, I don’t think...

I rinse the Hydroton very thoroughly before use. I would unpot your most troubled plant to see what the roots are like. A bad-root plant is going to struggle in anything for a while, but in Hydroton, with almost daily heavy misting, new roots have a chance to grow. I pot my plants deeper in...

I don’t want it to be virus, but having tested my entire collection in the past, and testing every new plant, my experience fits with what I have read: it is difficult to visually identify a virus infected plant. I am hoping that David has ready access to Agdia test strips (or the equivalent) to...

Miltoniopsis roots don’t have thick velamen. Somehow, the pseudobulb doesn’t seem to protect them from water sensitivity. My Miltoniopsis in Hydroton get heavily misted every day and then fed with a heavy watering about once a week. The roots are getting a lot of air but are never dry. Many...

How was your climb down, Leslie?

Deborah, we know your overall conditions are excellent and your water and fertilizer are correct. I think the first thing I would do is unpot the plant to see the condition of the roots. Good roots with your conditions and I can think about diseases, but I would need to see the health of the...

Ray, or one of his online calculators, will tell you exactly. When I run what you have given it is a very high ppm N. Yet, the EC is more in line with a solution that is about 75 ppm N. Even 1 mL/Liter would be a solution that should have an EC that is higher than 500-600.

The correct amount of fertilizer depends on a number of things including temperature, amount of light, type of orchid, potting media, and number of healthy roots. You might be doing it just right.