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There are 2 kinds of epiphytic orchids. The type which grow only on bark like Phalaenopsis or Vanda etc., and those which grow in accumulated leaf litter and humus like some paphs. Those on just bark must receive all the nutrients in balance including Ca, Mg and S just as you would for...

True but you still need to watch the P.

Charles, as is done with hundreds of thousands of container growth plants in soilless mixes around the world every year, calcium and magnesium are supplied via a pre-plant addition of dolomite and/or limestone to bring the pH of the bark (or peat) within the 5.5 to 6.5 range. If you do that...

They ''all worked'' because you supplied some N to a plant which would otherwise starve.. In the long run however, they would not work equally well, that is for certain. I think we can do a bit better than select almost any fertilizer and hope for the best.

Your feed is.. N 20% - P 8.8% - K 16.6% That is a P/N ratio of 0.44 which is more than double the P you actually need but they look pretty good regardless. I would consider bringing up the N to 30 to 35 with extra urea and the K to 20-25 (P2O5) with KSO4 and leave the P as is and see if you...

When I use bark I use the orchiata but lately I have switched to platycerium fire (along with charcoal, perlite and a little bark - (maybe 15%)) as I have a good amount of it and don't have a huge number of paphs. So far I have found it vastly superior to bark - as far as physical properties -...

A bit off topic, but it's worth remembering too that leaching is a common (if not the most common) reason pH drifts down even with 50/50 nitrate ammonium fertilizer. Nitrate added as fertilizer will not reduce pH but fertilizer added as ammonium will do so as, apart from the reason Ray...

No, not really but eventually they climb out of it a bit. If that happens I just a mulch of some fibre or something to cover the bases at the start of the growing season just as would happen in the habitat.

Yes but I can only afford to keep those temps in a very small area.

You can use pumice, polystyrene, good bark, charcoal, small bits of fern fibre, even a little coarse gravel or coarse perlite or anything that will last a long time in any combination. I found scoria unacceptable. As the polystyrene does not absorb water and orchid roots seem to like it, you can...

Thanks Tom and all. I had it in a ''hot chamber'' with lights overhead. Min about 18-20 max about 30. Pot was selected after learning from Tanaka - rounded bottom so no free water remains after draining. Also...''brachys hate repotting'' so when established in the second pot after flask, and...

After giving it some slightly cooler conditions (min 12-15C) over winter it flowered on all growths (9) rather than one at a time (at min 17-20) Slightly higher light helped as well I guess.

Yes they do seem quite easy but this one took much longer than 1 year. I got the seedling in a weak state and had to nurse it a lot. There are 2 plants in this pot, the other one in bud and both have a couple of new shoots. Canhii is much slower than rung so far in my experience.

First flower

I use nutricote 15.8 - 3.9 - 7.8 on everything. (yes everything) It's probably all that is required but I do give the occasional liquid feed with either organic or hydroponic to some plants. Both liquids high K. I prefer the K to be around the same as the N. For a medium sized plant in a medium...

To complicated. Bark and charcoal or bark and pumice or just bark. My mix has gotten more and more simple over time. Now I just use bark and clay balls. Sometimes a sprinkle a bit of sand. Use the various grades to change water holding capacity. Trick is to grow them in small pots (roots a bit...

Magnificent! Did you grow it from a seedling? How old?

That grows more than a metre long.

What is your set-up? charlesworthii seem to be very willing to bloom at temp mins from 5 to 15C but they take 2 years to mature a growth in my experience. A beautiful flower by the way!

Ok I had a look. I think it's a lot of rubbish. This is nothing remotely like gratrixianum. I will call it sulivongii. :)