K-Lite has been around a few years now... updates?

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ChrisFL

General Disarray
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Hi all,

So, how many of you have been using K-Lite/Solo-E since it's been out? Can we get any updates on whether things are still going well? Slippers and non slipper reports welcomed and encouraged.

Pics are important, too!
 
Chris there's a bunch of threads that detail this stuff out. I was looking through them not to long ago. K-lite seems to be legit as far as paphs go. I will be using k-lite on my phals when I get the package from Ray.
 
Chris, I've been using K-Lite exclusively for well over a
year on Paphs., Phrags. and species Phals. and I'm very
pleased with the results. I'm not a chemist, so my results
in my greenhouse conditions are beyond my capability to
explain in specific terms, but the benefits are apparent to
me.
 
No its not that Ray. I just don't want criticism to be misinterpreted. I am not a scientist and too often I see feedback that takes that course. I cannot argue some of the scientific battles because I do not have the educational background. From what I observed (as a hobbyist) it has caused me to no longer use it. I have tried to make it work for my growing conditions and my preference of species and I have found it to be less effective than other options. I used it for 18 months so I believe I gave it a fair shot.

If people are interested in the specific problems I encountered, I am happy to discuss them from an observational-reactionary position.
 
Chad - hobbyist here as well. I would be interested in hearing/reading your experience with k-lite. Medium used. Plants used on. Do you grow in a windowsill east facing window greenhouse. And your results over the 18 months you used it. I will be using k-lite very soon. I would like to know your experience to see if I need to adjust my culture in anyway.

Thanks.
 
Honestly Chad, I'd be happy to hear your observations! If not in public, by email.

I think some of the "scientific battles" waged here are largely theoretical only, while in practical reality of culture we practice, we are unlikely to see the plant responses espoused in them.
 
ok here it goes (I neglected my job for the past hour:drool:)

my plant collection:
for paphs-
mostly species
of those, mostly parvis and some brachys
of those, mostly albums
other paph species I grow: violascens, sangii, wardii album, venustum album, stonei, ect

Phrags: longifolium album (multiple), andreatte

aside from paphs, I only grow miniature to micro miniature species. mostly Pleurothallids, Oxyglossum section Dendrobiums, and SE Asian Bulbophyllum types.

My growing conditions:
strictly enclosures with consistent temperature ranges.
summer highs near 82F for paphs, lower for miniature species
winter lows of 50F, and on occasion slightly lower for some parvis

air movement is constant (24hrs a day)
light is from T5 bulbs and Ray's LEDs

humidity shifts throughout the day but it may range between 60-90%

Prior fertilizer used was MSU clean water with seaweed applications during the spring and fall.

Fertilizer applications were in varying concentrations but always under a tsp per gln. Both with KLite, MSU and my current regiments.

potting medium was comprised of Orchiata (sml and med), perlite, grow stone, large sponge rock, shredded sphagnum and limestone.
-certain species also have Diatomite mixed in (hangianum, emersonii, stonei for example)

My potting media has now changed as well. I have replaced the sphagnum with shredded coconut coir. The reason for this was consistent moisture levels instead of pockets of wet moss.

plant reactions during Klite use:
-root growth in all plants was encouraging and productive
-leaf growth was discouraging and slow
-bud blast was more evident and prior, not an issue
-multifloral species produced rot easily
-I rotted out a gigantifolium during this time. I have never rotted a paph in the 7-8 years I have grown them until this point. An armeniacum album also rotted. I had never killed a parvisepalum paph until this occurrence.
-leaf growth was weak by comparison, leaves would flop or worse, not grow very quickly and when stagnant in growth, they would develop infections near the base where the leaves touched. This was most evident, if not a constant variable that occurred in every paph species outside of the parvi-Brachy group
-parvi section paphs responded without major incident or noticable negative effect, same for Brachys. Although results were not negative, they were not encouraging either.
-Chlorosis, and leaf pigment in MF species was pale and inconsistent. Some leaves have even turned white, absent of any pigment. Leaf mottling in parvis section plants was bland by comparison. Many plants such as micranthums, showed less contrast and less shine.

Since stopping Klite I have leaf mottling that I would consider to be more appropriate. I have leaves in plants that are growing aggressively. I now have plants putting out 2-3 new leads on unbloomed growths. I also have buds or blooms on very small plants (my preference)
for example I have blooms on the following plants with a 8 cm LS and only 3 leaves- niveum, fowlei album and micranthum var. eburneum.


My experience is that I would not recommend using it for species outside of Parvi and Brachy. I would imagine I could have elaborated further, but perhaps this sums up my experience in a way that others may find useful.
 
I would like to buy some, but can't find any in Canada. Is there something similar in Canada?

It's too expensive to have it shipped from the USA.
 
Chad - based upon your description and my own experience, I suspect that the fertilizer formula was not really the primary - or maybe sole - source of the issues.

I am not big on parvi's or brachy's, yet all of my paphs are doing great. In fact, I have not sen an issue with any plant. Less-than-distinct mottling and dull-appearing leaves strikes me as a water-quality issue, but it may have been due to a combination of the content of the alkaline earth minerals and the concentration applied, when used with your water supply.

I have never applied K-Lite above 1/4 tsp/gal - usually about half that.
 
Interesting, Chad (and very nice info to characterize your culture). Thank you for sharing your experience (that's the value of this forum where people can freely share their experience)! It would be rather surprising that one type of fertilizer can make a big difference in all different types of cultural conditions.

What was the frequency of fertilization? And what are you currently using? Also, were you putting the powder directly into the working solution? Or did you use concentrated stock solution?

I personally don't see good or bad. I switched back and forth only a couple time. My bias is that I generally don't get convinced without a controlled experiment or other strong quantitative data, though. However, I'm thinking low K is good enough (and it could have a hypothetical benefit of reducing TDS as Mike Stone mentioned).
 
To be honest, we have reduced our use of K-Lite as our primary fertilizer, because 30-10-10 and 10-52-10 (both urea based) are producing better results for us in terms of leaf size and leaf color (green rather than yellow-green) - especially in Phrags. That is not to say K-Lite doesn't work well, it just doesn't seem to work as well in our growing environment as the others.
 
In regards to your comment Ray I should have stated that I always and only use distilled water on all my plants so I am starting at 0 TDS. That is why I felt I could alternate with a varying level of fertilizer that could reach up to 1 tsp. That is still far lower on TDS than most people's water. I generally apply 1/4 tsp. I fertilizer every watering because of the distilled water.

Naoki I am currently using a urea based fertilizer as Tom is. I am also alternating formulas monthly between this and MSU. This goes against what many orchid growers tell me to do. I believe their rational was that urea doesn't absorb well. I could be mistaken so don't hold me to it.
 
Chad - I really appreciate you getting into the detail that you did. It is insightful. Seems like results are somewhat of a mixed bag between your experience and others on the forum. I don't have any paphs at the moment but I will use k lite on some of my phals. Will lay off the neos and stay with the 20-20-20 for now I will cry if I loose any of them.
 
Marco I would say issues that I had were really with paphs that were not parvis or brachys. There are a number of reasons that I may not grow those types well. I found that with whatever level of culture I have, that klite compounded the problems that i have with those types.

Perhaps that is the most honest response I can have.
It's not that I fail with sangii, hookerae, wardii, venustum, anitum hybrids, ect ect but when I began using klite, through a series of seasons, those plants, both new and old purchases, grew with less vigor, presented more issues and were less appealing to look at.

it is much easier to commit to one fertilizer formula as unrealistic as that may be in terms of being universally effective for every species, every genera. As a commited hobbyist I would like to tell you I only give this plant this and this plant that but in reality, we only have so much time.

As a result I switched from it. I also continue to make other changes. Potting media, ect. And Lance that was over a period of time. Some before, many after. It was only a switch from the moss to coir. I make changes slowly and do so in the best judgement I can.
 
it is much easier to commit to one fertilizer formula as unrealistic as that may be in terms of being universally effective for every species, every genera. As a commited hobbyist I would like to tell you I only give this plant this and this plant that but in reality, we only have so much time.

I completely agree with this. Fortunately, right now I can count all of my plants between my ten fingers and ten toes. Watering with multiple types of fertilizer won't be to over-bearing. So I will be using K-lite on some phals.
 
In regards to your comment Ray I should have stated that I always and only use distilled water on all my plants so I am starting at 0 TDS. That is why I felt I could alternate with a varying level of fertilizer that could reach up to 1 tsp. That is still far lower on TDS than most people's water. I generally apply 1/4 tsp. I fertilizer every watering because of the distilled water.

Naoki I am currently using a urea based fertilizer as Tom is. I am also alternating formulas monthly between this and MSU. This goes against what many orchid growers tell me to do. I believe their rational was that urea doesn't absorb well. I could be mistaken so don't hold me to it.

Chad, You may also want to consider adding (to the above ferts) an organic fraction to the feeding solution. As you use distilled water there are no bicarbonates present and I feel orchids need a very low level of them. Organic fertilizers will supply that but on top of that they also supply things like silica, aluminium, sodium, chloride, nickel, organic nitrogen, selenium, various other organic compounds etc etc. But you need to research some of the good organic suppliers and find a high quality product. (or of course you can make your own which is the best way). The rate you use it at will be VERY low but I find I get the best results when I include it.
One reason the Klite work better with the brachys may be the fact that they come from neutral pH habitats (or at least with pH moderation with the limestone). Nitrate is formed more readily in warm neutral pH conditions so the limestone plants may well be more adapted to nitrates over ammonium.
Klite is all nitrate nitrogen. (apart from not having enough K or S...IMO)
The sangii, hookeri, wardii, venustum, anitum grow without limestone so they may respond to higher leves of ammonium/urea. As would the New Guinea Dends. Just a thought.
 

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